Відео

Hi there, there are quite a few games that output motion telemetry. There are a few different programs that can take this telemetry data and tell a sim rig how to move. A few popular programs are sim racing studio, sim tools, and sim hub. Sim Hub is what I am currently using.

@@IsaacBayer Thanks for the info!

You could try adding it to your steam library as a non steam game, and then open it in VR that way. Another thing would be setting virtual desktop to open XR instead of steam VR, and see if it works that way.

Hey there. Srs is very limited in doing anything custom like this since they only support certain rigs. I would suggest switching to SimHub for motion. They just added support for it a couple months ago and it's very good. You may also consider ditching the DOF firmware on the Arduino and reflash it with the open source SMC3.ino file found on xsimulators.net. if you want to play it safe, purchase a new Arduino board and save your old one with the dof software.

@@IsaacBayer thanks for your reply. I allready feard that this wont work easy... My original plan was to clone my dof arduino to tebuild a dof h6. Since the h3 to h6 upgrade kit comes with an additional box and the h3 box stays, i thought this will somehow work, but i dont know if srs just detects 2 boxes, and make it work...i guess not^^ I guess i will test a few things with an other arduino an wiper motors that i have in spare, since i just found out about flygp mover. thanks^^

@@wilmwittenhorst6665 you can run srs with simtools or simhub, but it can cause com port conflicts. I have done it though. I had my h3 running on srs, and a surge platform that was running on simtools. The open source smc3 is the way to go in my opinion though, you can just swap Arduino boards and hardware wise everything will work. Srs will NOT work though with open source smc3, so you will need to use SimHub. Diy all day though, gives you control over what you want to do. FYI, simhub does not support hexapod systems yet, like the h6

I'm not sure what part it was, sorry. I shot this video 9 years ago.

Thanks man, appreciate that. It's been a fun challenge. Keep your eye out for an update video!

Well, I would probably take a look at power wheels 7R gear boxes. Any of the gear boxes though will eventually fail, just the nature of plastic gears.

Yes, smc3

Sim hub just added smc3 support yesterday. Am testing at the moment.

That's awesome to hear. I love getting feedback like this, makes me feel like its worth the time and effort in making the videos. Thanks for checking it out!

not that I am aware of. Rig should sit level. Sometimes the start of a race will be on a slope, so the rig may not be level at the start of a race.

@@IsaacBayerwhen I’m driving my real car and I go around a curve, my body is thrown the opposite direction of the curve. Using SRS or Simhub, I’m thrown the same direction as a curve. Do I reverse pitch or roll to make it more realistic?

@@Brent-Nelson68 pitch and roll should follow the bank of the road. Sway is the g force you want to adjust for what you are talking about.

at this point dont get a real car

Surge acc/de-acc will be your gear changes, so maybe try turning down smoothing for that effect, or lowering max telemetry number. There is a curb option you can play with in SRS, or lower smoothing for heave or decrease max telemetry number. Let me know if that helps at all

Thanks for the reply. Still testing, followed your guide and alone or in pairs it felt great but when all together they start being smushed together, think that’s my problem. The default srs AC felt way better than what I’d created on sim tools though. Simtools is quite aggressive but not so detailed on sway & surge

@@alexanderredhead6847 I never got curbs to feel super great, I can't compare it to how sim tools handled it cause I never tried. I am building a new rig that will use sim tools for all motion. SRS is a nice platform though, so many tweaking options and ability to tune cars separately in games. You could try turning boost up, as that will amplify smaller details.

It's a bit louder than I expected but not too bad. I think in game the movement will be less as well. I'm going to add some grease to the bearings, maybe that will help. Bearings are running dry right now.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Thanks, I'll be posting an update soon!

Simtools 3.0, you will need to purchase a license. I use simtools and I also use SRS(sim racing studio) depending on what I'm trying to control. www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/simtools-v3-public-beta.17329/

@@IsaacBayer Thank you.

I added links to the stl files in the video description

No you didn't miss anything, I miss spoke, I should have put 14 in.

I believe the latest version comes with sfu, plus encoder motors and a shaft drive system, so the motors don't pivot with the sfu assembly. They hold up ok, sfu bolts and bearing loosen up and need maintenance. If I could start over, I would make a diy aluminum rig, or buy one, and then go with a 4 corner actuator set up. E racing labs actually has a decent price on them. Seems steep at first, but honestly it's not that bad. eracing-lab.com/collections/rs-series

I appreciate you sharing the info, actuators were what id like to do as i already have a profile rig. I am going to look into that more. Thanks!@@IsaacBayer

Enjoy the process, it's not easy, but worth it in the end when you build something cool

what headset are you using? The quest 3 has a new chip that helps VD work even better. Compression was an issue with quest 2 for me, but since switching to the quest 3 its alot better. I am also using wifi 6e. I am running on a 4090, god like in VD, and Steam SS set to 170 percent.

@@IsaacBayer Quest3. Most games look excellent but Dirt2 has these very hard to compress scenarios. If Quest3 improved compression quality then probably you are using AV1. It's good news when I will have a new GPU then it will be artifact free for me too. Oh my god Godlike + 170% supersampling? Isn't it a little overkill? Godlike + Steam 100% + the ingame AA should be enough to get a super sharp picture with no aliasing.

@@Nago15 Could be overkill, but I get a solid 90fps. I leave the encoder on auto. Its possible in the scenarios you are talking about I would see the compression. I would have to run a test to see. I do know that compression was bothering me before on Q2, and now it doesn't bother me anymore on q3. Its still there in some areas if you look for it, but not so much in your face like before.

Its the H3, but it is sitting on a custom surge platform.

That's sweet dude!@@IsaacBayer

@@IsaacBayerwhat does the surge platform do? Also is their a tutorial for it, your sim looks really fun.

I think you are on the right path. Part of the issue with the dof reality rigs is the lack of fidelity. They just don't have the resolution to do road textures. This is one of the big differences going to an actuator setup. I tune heave to basically give me some motion if there are large bumps, or dips, or if the car goes airborne over a hill for a second. Dirt Rally heave is pretty noticable because of the uneven track. If I check telemetry for heave in pc2 for example on a track I may get a reading of 28. But if I put 28 in as a value I will feel nothing even with the slider maxed out. So I have to bring max telemetry value down to like 8 to feel the car hit a big dip or get light at the crest of a steep hill. I would use haptics and your wheel for most road textures. If you are having problems with heave tossing you around if you crash or go off road try turning up the smoothing slider for heave or turning up the main overall smoothing slider. Heave is one of the harder ones to get right. It also varies a lot from track to track. You may think you got it, but then find on a different track that it's tossing you around like a rag doll.

Awesome, I'm glad it helped!

I had never clicked on the telemetry icon, so far I did a set up for ACC and the movement on my DOF P3 is way better and more realistic than using the intellitune. Thanks again @@IsaacBayer

@@aegisarmors that's great, I'm happy you are getting it dialed it.

Pretty much yes. You want to run a few track, like Daytona with very steep banks. But once u get pitch and roll dialed in, they should be pretty much be good for all yours cars.

It is very time consuming getting a perfect tune. I like to use a few different tracks to. A tune may feel good on one track, but be off a bit for another. Heave and roll especially

Haha, thats my favorite part of the track, thread the needle. I've lost track of $ in :)

Hey there. So I use pitch and roll for the road surface. G sway, and G acc is what I think you are talking about. So for G acc I do use a little bit, but its not really necessary as the surge platform is doing most of that movement. Having the seat pitch back while the rig moves forward kind of cancels the feeling out a little. I do use some, but not nearly as much as i would if there was no surge platform. Its not a problem with syncing. The strange feeling has gone away about 90 percent as I have continued to tune and tweak and improve the setup. Every now and then I will notice it, if I am breaking hard into turn and the tune isn't quite right. I use about 10 percent smoothing, but too much smoothing and you loose the feeling of the gear shifts, hitting wet patches etc. Hope that answers your question. And thanks for watching!

I would get the Quest 3 and use Virtual Desktop. Stream games from your pc wireless. Its amazing. www.vrdesktop.net/

Haha, nope, barely can keep my own up and running.

cool , its all good .@@IsaacBayer

Thanks. Its Dirt Rally 2.O. store.steampowered.com/app/690790/DiRT_Rally_20/

Nice, I'd love to see it!

I don't remember exactly, but it's a flanged wheel bearing for riding lawn mowers. (For the front wheels) Pretty standard part. You should be able to find them on eBay, just take some measurements.

Yeah, I messed up, should have unbolted the caliper from the bracket first. I did the brakes again a couple years later and it was easier the second time around.

Absolutely, g forces still exist in zero g.

Sure. Yes these motors got hot hot hot, especially with two kids and grass. If it was a single child on flat pavement they probably would have been ok. But they were under powered for what I wanted. The 775 motors absolutely blow these out of the water with temperature and power. The gear boxes were not a direct fit, I had to use a different axle, cut some of the frame plastic to make clearance. I used zip screws to attach the wheels to the power wheels hub. This set up flies on 24 volts.

Yes, I'm literally looking at them now on ML toys' youtube. Modding the current body/frame of my kids' ride-on wouldn't be terribly hard. Thanks! @@IsaacBayer

​@@hershelr.sullivaniii7139I used the Traxxas titan motors. Had good luck with them.